Friday, April 30, 2010
Whiteout on the lower glacier
The team could not do much yesterday, as they were stuck in whiteout conditions on the Kahiltna Glacier. Here is a dispatch from Billmeier:
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
At the base of Mount Crosson
Billmeier called from the base of Mount Crosson a few minutes ago. The traditional entrance couloir leading up onto the Southeast Ridge of Crosson was very melted out, so they are going to gain the route from a bit farther up the Kahiltna.
It took them about three hours and some "bobbing and weaving" to negotiate their way across the Kahiltna. There were some big crevasses that they had to pick their way around, but they are nestled in camp and looking forward to climbing up the ridge a ways tomorrow.
The plan is to carry some food and fuel up to a spectacular camp on the ridge crest. They will then return down to camp on the Kahiltna for the night. This will enable them to ease into the higher altitudes more easily than if they just moved on up.
It took them about three hours and some "bobbing and weaving" to negotiate their way across the Kahiltna. There were some big crevasses that they had to pick their way around, but they are nestled in camp and looking forward to climbing up the ridge a ways tomorrow.
The plan is to carry some food and fuel up to a spectacular camp on the ridge crest. They will then return down to camp on the Kahiltna for the night. This will enable them to ease into the higher altitudes more easily than if they just moved on up.
Training Pics from Talkeetna
Harold, hanging out in Talkeetna.
Miles working on his crevasse extrication technique while waiting to fly in Talkeetna.
The team! Miles, Bill, Harold and Michael getting dialed for their expedition.On The Glacier
The team drove north from Anchorage to the sleepy town of Talkeetna this morning. They checked in with the National Park Service and sat through and orientation presented by Climbing Ranger Mike Shane. Mike has climbed the Sultana and had loads of good information to share with the climbers.
They then drove over to Talkeetna Air Taxi and weighed their supplies and gear in preparation for the flight to the glacier. The weather cooperated, and they made the 45 minute flight in the the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
They will drop down the Southeast Fork and cross the main body of the Kahiltna tomorrow. This is a pretty moderate day, and will also help them work on rope management and glacier travel skills. From their base camp, they will assess the slopes leading up onto Mount Crosson, which is a peak they need to climb before gaining the long north ridge that leads up to Mount Foraker.
Flying into the Range is the first major hurdle in any Alaska Range expedition, so they are thrilled to have made it onto the ice.
They then drove over to Talkeetna Air Taxi and weighed their supplies and gear in preparation for the flight to the glacier. The weather cooperated, and they made the 45 minute flight in the the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
They will drop down the Southeast Fork and cross the main body of the Kahiltna tomorrow. This is a pretty moderate day, and will also help them work on rope management and glacier travel skills. From their base camp, they will assess the slopes leading up onto Mount Crosson, which is a peak they need to climb before gaining the long north ridge that leads up to Mount Foraker.
Flying into the Range is the first major hurdle in any Alaska Range expedition, so they are thrilled to have made it onto the ice.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Welcome to our 2010 Foraker expedition
When the first reports of a tremendous mountain range in central Alaska began to trickle out to the world, the conventional wisdom was that the peak lying to the west of the three behemoths that dominated the range was the tallest. Early explorers must have been a bit confused, as the local name for the mountain was "Sultana" or "Menali," meaning Denali's sister. It appeared bigger than Denali, and was often more obscured by clouds.
We now know that the apparent extra height of the peak we call Mount Foraker is an illusion, created by its southerly location, relative to it's big brother. Partly because of the intense draw of Denali and partly because of the additional challenges of attempting Foraker, it has been overlooked or, perhaps more aptly, avoided, by the masses over the decades. Situated to the southwest of Denali, Foraker acts almost as if a magnet for weather coming into the range. There are no "easy" routes to her summit, and every route is very committing.
Mountain Trip led the first guided ascent of Mount Foraker via the southeast ridge and we are continuing our tradition of guiding climbers up challenging climbing routes with our 2010 Sultana Ridge Expedition. The Sultana or Northeast Ridge is a sublime, glaciated ridge that drops 5,000 feet down from the summit of Foraker. To access the route, climbers must first climb up and over two 12,000 foot peaks and traverse out a long section of corniced ridgeline that connects to the Sultana. It is a long and challenging route, with a very difficult summit day, due to the vertical relief involved.
On April 25, 2010 a team of four climbers will meet in Anchorage to finalize their oprganization for the ascent. Let's meet the team!
Guides:
Bill Billmeier from The Bench, AK
Michael Burmeister from Anchorage, AK
Climbers:
Miles Vinar from Australia
Harold Orner from New Mexico
We will make every effort to keep posts on this dispatch blog up to date, but please keep in mind that occasionally weather or workload may prevent the team from communicating to us via their satellite phone. Keep in mind the old axiom, "No News Is Good News," as we will always be kept apprised of any sub-optimal news.
Enjoy the dispatches. We'll post photos from the expedition after the trip returns to Anchorage, so please check back after the climbers are back in town as well.
We now know that the apparent extra height of the peak we call Mount Foraker is an illusion, created by its southerly location, relative to it's big brother. Partly because of the intense draw of Denali and partly because of the additional challenges of attempting Foraker, it has been overlooked or, perhaps more aptly, avoided, by the masses over the decades. Situated to the southwest of Denali, Foraker acts almost as if a magnet for weather coming into the range. There are no "easy" routes to her summit, and every route is very committing.
Mountain Trip led the first guided ascent of Mount Foraker via the southeast ridge and we are continuing our tradition of guiding climbers up challenging climbing routes with our 2010 Sultana Ridge Expedition. The Sultana or Northeast Ridge is a sublime, glaciated ridge that drops 5,000 feet down from the summit of Foraker. To access the route, climbers must first climb up and over two 12,000 foot peaks and traverse out a long section of corniced ridgeline that connects to the Sultana. It is a long and challenging route, with a very difficult summit day, due to the vertical relief involved.
On April 25, 2010 a team of four climbers will meet in Anchorage to finalize their oprganization for the ascent. Let's meet the team!
Guides:
Bill Billmeier from The Bench, AK
Michael Burmeister from Anchorage, AK
Climbers:
Miles Vinar from Australia
Harold Orner from New Mexico
We will make every effort to keep posts on this dispatch blog up to date, but please keep in mind that occasionally weather or workload may prevent the team from communicating to us via their satellite phone. Keep in mind the old axiom, "No News Is Good News," as we will always be kept apprised of any sub-optimal news.
Enjoy the dispatches. We'll post photos from the expedition after the trip returns to Anchorage, so please check back after the climbers are back in town as well.
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