Bill left the following message a few hours ago, from KIA (Kahiltna International Airport), otherwise known as Base Camp:
Friday, May 14, 2010
Back at Base Camp!
The team made their way down the front (east) side of Crosson yesterday and then hiked across the Kahiltna Glacier and up the seemingly never-ending rise in the Southeast Fork called Heartbreak Hill.
They were pretty tuckered, but nestled in at Base Camp, and are hoping to fly out today. The weather looks like it might keep them on the glacier for another day, but we are dealing with the Alaska Range, so all bets are off, and my fingers are crossed that they will load up a plane and be eating steaks at the West Rib Restaurant this afternoon.
We'll post photos after they get back and the guides will post their re-caps of the expedition, so please stay tuned!
They were pretty tuckered, but nestled in at Base Camp, and are hoping to fly out today. The weather looks like it might keep them on the glacier for another day, but we are dealing with the Alaska Range, so all bets are off, and my fingers are crossed that they will load up a plane and be eating steaks at the West Rib Restaurant this afternoon.
We'll post photos after they get back and the guides will post their re-caps of the expedition, so please stay tuned!
Podcast from Mt Crosson
Billmeier called in with a report that I apologize for not getting up on the blog sooner. This came in during the wee hours of the morning yesterday:
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Still stuck on the ridge.
The team checked in Tues. evening to report white out conditions. High winds, blowing snow, and white out do not make for reasonable travel on a narrow ridge. The team is tucked into a nice camp between Mounts Foraker & Crosson. They have plenty of food and fuel and remain quite comfortable.
Think warm calm thoughts.
Think warm calm thoughts.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Difficult weather!
The team checked in late last night. They had just arrived back at their High Camp at the base of the Sultana Ridge. They were forced to turn around at about 16,500 ft due to the weather window closing down. Everyone was in good health and spirits. The guys gave it a great shot. There are many things we have no control over in the mountains, the weather certainly being one of them.
We are super proud of this crew and wish them a long comfy night's sleep and safe return back to civilization. They planned to sleep in today then begin making their way back toward Mount. Crosson and finally on to Basecamp. We look forward to seeing them in Talkeetna within a few days.
We'll continue to keep you posted until everyone is safely returned to Talkeetna. Thanks again for following the guys on their amazing journey up a remarkable climb.
Happy Trails!
We are super proud of this crew and wish them a long comfy night's sleep and safe return back to civilization. They planned to sleep in today then begin making their way back toward Mount. Crosson and finally on to Basecamp. We look forward to seeing them in Talkeetna within a few days.
We'll continue to keep you posted until everyone is safely returned to Talkeetna. Thanks again for following the guys on their amazing journey up a remarkable climb.
Happy Trails!
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Try for the summit today!
Billmeier called last night to check in. They spent the day preping for a summit bit today. Everyone is ready and well fueled. The Talkeetna Air Taxi web cam of the AK Range shows blue bird sky's this morning and apparently quite favorable conditions for climbing.
We will post as soon as we hear anything from this crew. They were not certain what time they would set off this morning. Please keep in mind this is a very long (5000 vertical feet) summit day. It would not be uncommon for them to be out for upwards of 20 plus hours.
The climb from here is up a very broad ridge. Navigation can be tricky in less than clear visibility. Fortunately for our guys, it is looks to be a perfect day.
Until next time...happy trails!
We will post as soon as we hear anything from this crew. They were not certain what time they would set off this morning. Please keep in mind this is a very long (5000 vertical feet) summit day. It would not be uncommon for them to be out for upwards of 20 plus hours.
The climb from here is up a very broad ridge. Navigation can be tricky in less than clear visibility. Fortunately for our guys, it is looks to be a perfect day.
Until next time...happy trails!
Friday, May 7, 2010
Arrived at 12,200 foot High Camp.
The team floated across the rest of the traversing section of ridge and has High Camp established at 12,200 ft. Our information indicated a relatively nice travel day for the crew. This will be their last camp on the ascent. From here they will wait for a nice day to make their bid for the summit. This summit day is a big one, about 5000 feet! Fortunately, for the guys, their loads will be very light.
Thanks for posting comments to the team. We try to relay them as best we can. They certainly appreciate the thoughts and support.
We'll post again as soon as we hear anything about a possible attempt for the summit.
Until next time...think warm sunny thoughts for the guys!
Thanks for posting comments to the team. We try to relay them as best we can. They certainly appreciate the thoughts and support.
We'll post again as soon as we hear anything about a possible attempt for the summit.
Until next time...think warm sunny thoughts for the guys!
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Traversing the long ridge toward Foraker.
The team checked in Wed. night. After a pretty long and strenuous day, they have established themselves about 1/3 of the way across the long traversing ridge. From a distance the ridge looks relatively easy. In reality it is quite technical terrain with many route finding challenges. The crew passed one of the famous knife edge sections on the ridge today with great ease.
The team is now going to single carry to their final camp at 12,200 ft, situated near the base of the long summit ridge. Their loads were heavy Tues. as they have all the food and fuel they could need for the next week.
Everyone in the group wishes to say hello to friends and loved ones back home. We are able to share your thoughts from the comments section via sat phone. They are all very interested in the happenings of the "inside" world.
Thanks again for following the team as they attempt one of the more elusive summits in the AK Range.
Happy Trails.
The team is now going to single carry to their final camp at 12,200 ft, situated near the base of the long summit ridge. Their loads were heavy Tues. as they have all the food and fuel they could need for the next week.
Everyone in the group wishes to say hello to friends and loved ones back home. We are able to share your thoughts from the comments section via sat phone. They are all very interested in the happenings of the "inside" world.
Thanks again for following the team as they attempt one of the more elusive summits in the AK Range.
Happy Trails.
A winner and a podcast!
We had a winner in our trivia challenge! Big Creek Brew - shoot us an email with your address and T-shirt size and we'll hook you up with a neo-classic, Mountain Trip shirt, thereby making you the envy of everyone in town!
In other news- we received the following call late last night from the team:
In other news- we received the following call late last night from the team:
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Past Mount Crosson.
The team moved camp over the summit of Mount Crosson on Tues. Their new home lies on a spectacular ridge between Crosson and Peak 12,472 at about 11,700 feet. They report the view to be remarkable!
The crew is climbing strong and working really well together. The weather was great for the move with light winds and favorable temps. This next section of the climb is a real treat. It's amazing how close to Kahiltna Basecamp the team is, yet it feels like all of the hustle and bustle of the West Buttress is a world away.
A little AK Range trivia for those following this blog. For whom is Mount Crosson named, and what is the significance relative to climbing in the area? Post your answer in the "comments" section.
Happy Trails!
The crew is climbing strong and working really well together. The weather was great for the move with light winds and favorable temps. This next section of the climb is a real treat. It's amazing how close to Kahiltna Basecamp the team is, yet it feels like all of the hustle and bustle of the West Buttress is a world away.
A little AK Range trivia for those following this blog. For whom is Mount Crosson named, and what is the significance relative to climbing in the area? Post your answer in the "comments" section.
Happy Trails!
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Carry past the summit of Crosson.
The team checked in to report they made a carry over the summit of Mount Crosson (12,800 ft) and placed a cache at 11,700 ft on the other side. Monday night was spent back at their camp at 10,800 ft on the Southeast Ridge of Crosson. The plan is to move camp past the summit of Crosson today. Everyone is doing well and in great spirits. They wish to say hello to everyone following their journey.
The route from here will include a bunch of up and down as they will more or less be traversing to the base of the summit ridge on Foraker. The next big objective for the group will be to get over another small peak along the ridge, Peak 12,472. After that it's nearly 5 miles to the base of the summit ridge. The following days will include some remarkable climbing for this group. As they work along the ridge, the North side of Denali National Park sprawls toward eternity on the right and the heart of the Central Alaska Range sits to the left.
Until next time...make it a great day!
The route from here will include a bunch of up and down as they will more or less be traversing to the base of the summit ridge on Foraker. The next big objective for the group will be to get over another small peak along the ridge, Peak 12,472. After that it's nearly 5 miles to the base of the summit ridge. The following days will include some remarkable climbing for this group. As they work along the ridge, the North side of Denali National Park sprawls toward eternity on the right and the heart of the Central Alaska Range sits to the left.
Until next time...make it a great day!
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Back Carry Today!
We got word tonight the Foraker crew did a back carry today. After a big breakfast this morning the team descended to the Gendarme Camp on Mount Crosson to pick up their cache of gear. It's always a good feeling when you return with the cache. Tucked into a comfy camp with all of your food and supplies, what could be better?
The information we received didn't indicate a plan for tomorrow. It is likely the team will either carry a load over the summit of Crosson or possibly try move their camp over. There are a couple really comfortable camps on the other side of Crosson heading toward the Sultana Ridge.
Until next time...happy trails!
The information we received didn't indicate a plan for tomorrow. It is likely the team will either carry a load over the summit of Crosson or possibly try move their camp over. There are a couple really comfortable camps on the other side of Crosson heading toward the Sultana Ridge.
Until next time...happy trails!
On the ridge of Crosson!
The team checked in Saturday evening to say they have established a camp on Mount Crosson. The crew put in a huge day pushing to about 10,800 ft on the ridge. Billmeier said the group enjoyed a big dinner and turned in early. Everyone is doing well and working super hard together for their common goal.
This is one of the most remarkable places in the park to climb. You are right in the middle of everything happening at basecamp and the lower part of the West Buttress route, but you are so far away from it all. The views of Denali are top notch. After the team passes over the summit of Crosson they will descend slightly then face a huge traversing section as they make their way toward the Sultana Ridge of Foraker.
On Sunday the team will likely go back down to the Gendarme Camp to retrieve their cache which was put in a few days ago, then climb back up to their current camp. The team wishes to say hello to everyone following them. Until next time...happy trails!
This is one of the most remarkable places in the park to climb. You are right in the middle of everything happening at basecamp and the lower part of the West Buttress route, but you are so far away from it all. The views of Denali are top notch. After the team passes over the summit of Crosson they will descend slightly then face a huge traversing section as they make their way toward the Sultana Ridge of Foraker.
On Sunday the team will likely go back down to the Gendarme Camp to retrieve their cache which was put in a few days ago, then climb back up to their current camp. The team wishes to say hello to everyone following them. Until next time...happy trails!
Friday, April 30, 2010
Whiteout on the lower glacier
The team could not do much yesterday, as they were stuck in whiteout conditions on the Kahiltna Glacier. Here is a dispatch from Billmeier:
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
At the base of Mount Crosson
Billmeier called from the base of Mount Crosson a few minutes ago. The traditional entrance couloir leading up onto the Southeast Ridge of Crosson was very melted out, so they are going to gain the route from a bit farther up the Kahiltna.
It took them about three hours and some "bobbing and weaving" to negotiate their way across the Kahiltna. There were some big crevasses that they had to pick their way around, but they are nestled in camp and looking forward to climbing up the ridge a ways tomorrow.
The plan is to carry some food and fuel up to a spectacular camp on the ridge crest. They will then return down to camp on the Kahiltna for the night. This will enable them to ease into the higher altitudes more easily than if they just moved on up.
It took them about three hours and some "bobbing and weaving" to negotiate their way across the Kahiltna. There were some big crevasses that they had to pick their way around, but they are nestled in camp and looking forward to climbing up the ridge a ways tomorrow.
The plan is to carry some food and fuel up to a spectacular camp on the ridge crest. They will then return down to camp on the Kahiltna for the night. This will enable them to ease into the higher altitudes more easily than if they just moved on up.
Training Pics from Talkeetna
Harold, hanging out in Talkeetna.
Miles working on his crevasse extrication technique while waiting to fly in Talkeetna.
The team! Miles, Bill, Harold and Michael getting dialed for their expedition.On The Glacier
The team drove north from Anchorage to the sleepy town of Talkeetna this morning. They checked in with the National Park Service and sat through and orientation presented by Climbing Ranger Mike Shane. Mike has climbed the Sultana and had loads of good information to share with the climbers.
They then drove over to Talkeetna Air Taxi and weighed their supplies and gear in preparation for the flight to the glacier. The weather cooperated, and they made the 45 minute flight in the the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
They will drop down the Southeast Fork and cross the main body of the Kahiltna tomorrow. This is a pretty moderate day, and will also help them work on rope management and glacier travel skills. From their base camp, they will assess the slopes leading up onto Mount Crosson, which is a peak they need to climb before gaining the long north ridge that leads up to Mount Foraker.
Flying into the Range is the first major hurdle in any Alaska Range expedition, so they are thrilled to have made it onto the ice.
They then drove over to Talkeetna Air Taxi and weighed their supplies and gear in preparation for the flight to the glacier. The weather cooperated, and they made the 45 minute flight in the the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
They will drop down the Southeast Fork and cross the main body of the Kahiltna tomorrow. This is a pretty moderate day, and will also help them work on rope management and glacier travel skills. From their base camp, they will assess the slopes leading up onto Mount Crosson, which is a peak they need to climb before gaining the long north ridge that leads up to Mount Foraker.
Flying into the Range is the first major hurdle in any Alaska Range expedition, so they are thrilled to have made it onto the ice.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Welcome to our 2010 Foraker expedition
When the first reports of a tremendous mountain range in central Alaska began to trickle out to the world, the conventional wisdom was that the peak lying to the west of the three behemoths that dominated the range was the tallest. Early explorers must have been a bit confused, as the local name for the mountain was "Sultana" or "Menali," meaning Denali's sister. It appeared bigger than Denali, and was often more obscured by clouds.
We now know that the apparent extra height of the peak we call Mount Foraker is an illusion, created by its southerly location, relative to it's big brother. Partly because of the intense draw of Denali and partly because of the additional challenges of attempting Foraker, it has been overlooked or, perhaps more aptly, avoided, by the masses over the decades. Situated to the southwest of Denali, Foraker acts almost as if a magnet for weather coming into the range. There are no "easy" routes to her summit, and every route is very committing.
Mountain Trip led the first guided ascent of Mount Foraker via the southeast ridge and we are continuing our tradition of guiding climbers up challenging climbing routes with our 2010 Sultana Ridge Expedition. The Sultana or Northeast Ridge is a sublime, glaciated ridge that drops 5,000 feet down from the summit of Foraker. To access the route, climbers must first climb up and over two 12,000 foot peaks and traverse out a long section of corniced ridgeline that connects to the Sultana. It is a long and challenging route, with a very difficult summit day, due to the vertical relief involved.
On April 25, 2010 a team of four climbers will meet in Anchorage to finalize their oprganization for the ascent. Let's meet the team!
Guides:
Bill Billmeier from The Bench, AK
Michael Burmeister from Anchorage, AK
Climbers:
Miles Vinar from Australia
Harold Orner from New Mexico
We will make every effort to keep posts on this dispatch blog up to date, but please keep in mind that occasionally weather or workload may prevent the team from communicating to us via their satellite phone. Keep in mind the old axiom, "No News Is Good News," as we will always be kept apprised of any sub-optimal news.
Enjoy the dispatches. We'll post photos from the expedition after the trip returns to Anchorage, so please check back after the climbers are back in town as well.
We now know that the apparent extra height of the peak we call Mount Foraker is an illusion, created by its southerly location, relative to it's big brother. Partly because of the intense draw of Denali and partly because of the additional challenges of attempting Foraker, it has been overlooked or, perhaps more aptly, avoided, by the masses over the decades. Situated to the southwest of Denali, Foraker acts almost as if a magnet for weather coming into the range. There are no "easy" routes to her summit, and every route is very committing.
Mountain Trip led the first guided ascent of Mount Foraker via the southeast ridge and we are continuing our tradition of guiding climbers up challenging climbing routes with our 2010 Sultana Ridge Expedition. The Sultana or Northeast Ridge is a sublime, glaciated ridge that drops 5,000 feet down from the summit of Foraker. To access the route, climbers must first climb up and over two 12,000 foot peaks and traverse out a long section of corniced ridgeline that connects to the Sultana. It is a long and challenging route, with a very difficult summit day, due to the vertical relief involved.
On April 25, 2010 a team of four climbers will meet in Anchorage to finalize their oprganization for the ascent. Let's meet the team!
Guides:
Bill Billmeier from The Bench, AK
Michael Burmeister from Anchorage, AK
Climbers:
Miles Vinar from Australia
Harold Orner from New Mexico
We will make every effort to keep posts on this dispatch blog up to date, but please keep in mind that occasionally weather or workload may prevent the team from communicating to us via their satellite phone. Keep in mind the old axiom, "No News Is Good News," as we will always be kept apprised of any sub-optimal news.
Enjoy the dispatches. We'll post photos from the expedition after the trip returns to Anchorage, so please check back after the climbers are back in town as well.
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