Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Back in town, eating lots

I'm sitting in cotton clothing at Mt. Trip HQ in Anchorage looking through photos and thought these following gave a small sample of the experience.

Team Foraker 2010, left to right: Harold Orner, Mike Burmeister, Bill Billmeier, Miles Vinar at Talkeetna Air Taxi just before our flight into Kahiltna basecamp

Miles Vinar in full glacier getup.


Harold hauls the pig up Mt. Crosson. Early in the trip with all the food we carried packs that were often quite heavy, although Mike and I tried to convince Harold and Miles that the weight was just 40 lbs. They didnt buy it.

Our 10,800 camp on Mt. Crosson gave a unique and breathtaking view of basecamp and Mt. Hunter.

Miles, Harold and guide extraordinaire Mike Burmeister get ready to set up camp midway between Mt. Crosson and the Sultana. Mike had led out for an hour in low to no visibility before we decided an early dinner would be better than stumbling around in a whiteout.


Our weather for the final move to the base of the Sultana was stunning, and rare for this particular area. Our ridge seemed to hold onto the bad weather like glue, but there is the Sultana dead ahead, waiting for our crampon points..

Just for the balance, this is how it looks when the snow is blowing across the ridge. We would drop packs in the hope that the conditions would improve, but this time the conditions were getting steadily worse. Visibility here is just over 60 meters and was getting worse, not enough to travel safely on exposed terrain, so we dug in camp instead of fighting into the storm.

Digging in camp involves lots of WORK! Harold and Miles battled the wind to help make solid walls. For a visual on the wind speed, check out the red cord on the shovel handle next to Miles's (yellow parka) right leg.

What a unique, beautiful and challenging trip. Harold and Miles did an outstanding job as part of the climbing team and certainly got the full Alaska experience- we had good weather, bad weather, marginal weather; blizzards, high winds and periods of ample (maybe too much) sunshine. As far as I can tell, our party got higher on the route than any other guided team in almost 2 decades......so close! Don't quote me on that, but anectodal evidence seems to confirm it. Stay tuned, I'll put some more pictures on here soon.

Friday, May 14, 2010

At the Airstrip!

Bill left the following message a few hours ago, from KIA (Kahiltna International Airport), otherwise known as Base Camp:

Back at Base Camp!

The team made their way down the front (east) side of Crosson yesterday and then hiked across the Kahiltna Glacier and up the seemingly never-ending rise in the Southeast Fork called Heartbreak Hill.

They were pretty tuckered, but nestled in at Base Camp, and are hoping to fly out today. The weather looks like it might keep them on the glacier for another day, but we are dealing with the Alaska Range, so all bets are off, and my fingers are crossed that they will load up a plane and be eating steaks at the West Rib Restaurant this afternoon.

We'll post photos after they get back and the guides will post their re-caps of the expedition, so please stay tuned!

Podcast from Mt Crosson

Billmeier called in with a report that I apologize for not getting up on the blog sooner. This came in during the wee hours of the morning yesterday:

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Still stuck on the ridge.

The team checked in Tues. evening to report white out conditions. High winds, blowing snow, and white out do not make for reasonable travel on a narrow ridge. The team is tucked into a nice camp between Mounts Foraker & Crosson. They have plenty of food and fuel and remain quite comfortable.

Think warm calm thoughts.

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Difficult weather!

The team checked in late last night. They had just arrived back at their High Camp at the base of the Sultana Ridge. They were forced to turn around at about 16,500 ft due to the weather window closing down. Everyone was in good health and spirits. The guys gave it a great shot. There are many things we have no control over in the mountains, the weather certainly being one of them.

We are super proud of this crew and wish them a long comfy night's sleep and safe return back to civilization. They planned to sleep in today then begin making their way back toward Mount. Crosson and finally on to Basecamp. We look forward to seeing them in Talkeetna within a few days.

We'll continue to keep you posted until everyone is safely returned to Talkeetna. Thanks again for following the guys on their amazing journey up a remarkable climb.

Happy Trails!

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Try for the summit today!

Billmeier called last night to check in. They spent the day preping for a summit bit today. Everyone is ready and well fueled. The Talkeetna Air Taxi web cam of the AK Range shows blue bird sky's this morning and apparently quite favorable conditions for climbing.

We will post as soon as we hear anything from this crew. They were not certain what time they would set off this morning. Please keep in mind this is a very long (5000 vertical feet) summit day. It would not be uncommon for them to be out for upwards of 20 plus hours.

The climb from here is up a very broad ridge. Navigation can be tricky in less than clear visibility. Fortunately for our guys, it is looks to be a perfect day.

Until next time...happy trails!